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2026 tax year · Free

2026 Tax Refund Calculator

Answer a few questions and see whether you’d get money back from the IRS or owe. W-2, 1099 or cash income.

  • Free, no sign-up
  • Works with an SSN or an ITIN
  • No name needed, nothing stored

Tax calculator 2026

  1. About you
  2. Your income
  3. Your family optional
  4. Your result
Your estimate —
Do you have an SSN or an ITIN? Pick one.

We ask because some credits only exist with an SSN. None of this leaves your phone.

How do you file? Pick one.
I’m not sure which one I am
  • Single — You’re not married, and you’re not the one paying for someone else’s household. Divorced or widowed counts here too, as long as you file on your own.
  • Married, filing jointly — You’re married and everything goes on one return, the two of you together. This is what most married couples do.
  • Married, filing separately — You’re married, but each of you files your own return. Several credits go away this way, so it fits a narrow set of situations. If you think yours is one of them, we’ll look at it with you.
  • Head of household — You’re not married, you pay for the home, and a child or a relative who depends on you lives with you.

About your spouse

Two questions and we move on. They can change your number by thousands of dollars.

Does your spouse have an SSN or an ITIN?
Why we ask, and what it’s worth

Because the Earned Income Credit — the biggest credit for working families — needs a Social Security number for both spouses. If one of you doesn’t have one, that credit is off the table, and that’s thousands of dollars of difference. We’re not asking for the number, only which one your spouse has. And this runs inside your phone: nothing gets sent anywhere.

How were you paid this year? Check everything that applies — more than one can be true.
What counts as income?
  • What counts Every dollar you were paid for your work, wherever it came from: cash, tips, overtime, 1099 work, your own business, and every job you had this year added up. If you were paid in cash and there’s no paperwork, it still counts.
  • What you subtract first What you spent to do the work: materials, mileage or gas for the job, tools, your phone, insurance, rent on a shop or on equipment, and licenses and permits. Subtract that, then put down what’s left.
  • What doesn’t go here Anything a W-2 job paid you — that goes in the other box. Money someone gifted or sent you, and money you sent. Loans. And money that only passed through your account on its way to someone else: material the client paid for, or what you hand to the people working with you.
  • What came in isn’t what you made This is the mix-up that moves people’s numbers the most. If a job paid you and you bought the material out of that check, that money was never all yours to keep. What goes here is what’s left after everything the work cost you — that’s the part the IRS taxes. If you’ve never worked it out, put your best guess: you can change it later without losing anything you’ve already answered.

Did you have any of these?

Your first estimate

Book a free consultation

Your kids and dependents aren’t in this number yet, and they can move it by thousands.

Do you have kids or other dependents? People who live with you and who you support.

How many, and how old?

Who goes in which box?
  • Kids with an SSN, under 17 The ones who were 16 or younger at the end of the year.
  • Kids with an SSN, 17–18 or students The ones who were 17 or 18 at the end of the year, plus kids 19 to 23 who were full-time students. They’re past the big child credit: each one is worth $500, and they still count toward the Earned Income Credit.
  • Other dependents Your kids under 17 without an SSN go here, and so do parents, siblings, or other relatives who live with you and depend on you. We don’t ask whether they have an SSN or an ITIN, because the credit is the same $500 either way.

Your result

Book your free consultation Free, no strings attached. With your documents in front of us, the real number comes out.

What to bring to your appointment

  • Your photo ID
  • Your Social Security card or your ITIN letter
  • Your spouse’s ID and their SSN or ITIN
  • Your W-2s, one from every job you had
  • Your 1099s and a record of what you took in and what you spent: receipts, car mileage
  • Your 1099-G for unemployment
  • Paperwork for your other income: SSA-1099 for Social Security, 1099-R for a pension, 1099-INT from the bank, or your rental records
  • The SSN or ITIN and date of birth of every child or dependent
  • If you have kids 19 to 23 in school, a letter or record from the school
  • If you had Marketplace (Obamacare) health insurance, Form 1095-A
  • Last year’s tax return, if you have it
  • Your bank’s routing and account numbers, so your refund is deposited directly

Missing something? Come anyway, and we’ll sort it out with you.

How this number adds up
    What you told us

    This runs inside your phone. Nothing is sent, nothing is stored, and none of it reaches us.

    Not sure what to put? Ask us on WhatsApp
    This is an estimate, not your return

    It uses the federal rules for 2026 and leaves out state tax, other kinds of income, and special situations. Your real number comes out when we go through your documents. It’s here for one reason: so you know roughly what to expect before you start.

    How to fill this in

    The box asks for eight things, in this order, and none of them is your name. Below is what goes in each one, what people usually get wrong there, and what it changes in the result. You don’t need a single document in front of you to get a useful number — approximate figures give an approximate answer, which is the whole point.

    How old are you?

    Direct answer. Your age decides two things in this estimate: the extra standard deduction that starts at 65, and — if you have no children to claim — whether you’re inside the age range the Earned Income Credit requires, which is 25 to 64. The box wants an age, not a birthday.

    Example. Marcus is 41. His age changes nothing in his number, because he claims his son and the age range only applies to filers with no qualifying children. Gloria is 67, files on her own, and the same box quietly adds $2,050 to her standard deduction before anything else is calculated.

    Tip. If you file jointly, the box also asks how old your spouse is. That isn’t a formality: the extra deduction is per person, so a couple where both are 65 or older gets it twice.

    Watch out. An approximate age works. Nobody needs a document for this one.

    Do you have an SSN or an ITIN?

    Direct answer. Pick the number you file with. This is the answer that moves the result most, because the Earned Income Credit requires a Social Security number and the Child Tax Credit requires one somewhere on the return. If you don’t have either number yet, choose ITIN.

    Example. Rosa files with an ITIN. Her daughter has an SSN, and on most calculators that would produce the full child credit. Here it doesn’t, and the box says why: for a filer who isn’t married, the credit looks at the filer’s number, not only the child’s. Her two kids produce $500 each instead, and that credit can’t turn into a refund.

    Tip. The box opens on “I have an SSN” because that’s most people. Check it before you believe the number — flipping this one answer can move a family’s result by thousands of dollars.

    Watch out. If the number was issued by the IRS, it’s an ITIN. If it came from the Social Security Administration, it’s an SSN. If you’re waiting on a first ITIN, answer ITIN — that’s the case the estimate should show you.

    How do you file: single, married or head of household?

    Direct answer. Four options: single, married filing jointly, married filing separately, and head of household. Your choice sets your standard deduction and which bracket table applies, so it changes the number before a single credit is counted.

    Example. Rosa isn’t married, pays for her apartment, and her kids live with her. That’s head of household, and it’s worth $24,150 of standard deduction instead of the $16,100 she’d get as single. It’s the status people most often leave on the table.

    Tip. Head of household has three tests and all three have to be true: you’re unmarried, you pay more than half the cost of keeping up your home, and a qualifying person lives there with you.

    Watch out. Married filing separately is in the box, and picking it because it sounds more cautious is expensive: the Earned Income Credit disappears entirely, the child credit starts phasing out at half the income, and if your spouse itemizes, your standard deduction drops to zero. The box can’t ask about that last one, so with this status the number it shows is a ceiling, not a promise.

    What the box asks about your spouse

    Direct answer. If you file jointly or separately, the box asks two things about your spouse: their age, and whether they have an SSN or an ITIN. It never asks for the number itself.

    Example. The Ortegas file jointly. Dani has an SSN, Beto has an ITIN. Two rules that sound like one rule split here, and they split in opposite directions: their two kids with SSNs produce the full child credit, up to $2,200 each, because a joint return only needs one spouse with an SSN. The Earned Income Credit is gone, because that one needs an SSN for both spouses. One answer, two different outcomes.

    Tip. Almost nobody knows those two rules work differently, including people who file their own return every year. If it’s your situation, it’s worth going through with someone — the gap runs into thousands of dollars.

    Watch out. An approximate age for your spouse is fine, and this panel never blocks you.

    How were you paid this year?

    Direct answer. Check everything that applies. Both can be true, and for a lot of people they are — the box adds the two kinds of income and taxes them differently, which is exactly why it asks.

    Example. Marcus delivered for DoorDash all year and worked part-time in a warehouse. He checks both. If he checked only “On my own”, the estimate would forget the tax already withheld from his paychecks and tell him he owes money he’s already paid.

    Tip. Translating real life into the two boxes: a 1099-NEC, a 1099-K, cash, Zelle or Cash App, or your own business → On my own. A pay stub with deductions taken out and a W-2 in January → With a W-2. A job that paid you through an app is almost always the first one, whatever the app calls you.

    Watch out. If the result looks wrong by a lot, this is the first box to go back to.

    What you made on your own, after expenses

    Direct answer. Put what you kept, not what came in. Subtract what the work cost you — materials, mileage, tools, your phone, insurance, platform fees, licenses — and enter what’s left. That number is what gets taxed, and it’s the single most common thing people get wrong here.

    Example. Beto billed about $74,000 in drywall work last year and spent roughly $23,000 on materials, gas, a trailer rental and permits. $51,000 goes in the box. If he typed $74,000, the calculator would tax $23,000 he never kept, add self-employment tax on top of it, and hand him a frightening number that isn’t his.

    Tip. The expenses people forget first: mileage, the phone they take every job on, and the cut the platform kept before the money ever landed. Those three alone often move the figure by thousands.

    Watch out. If you don’t keep books, don’t stop here — put your honest best guess and keep going. You can change it afterwards without losing any of the other answers. An estimate built on a rough number is still worth more than a blank screen.

    Your W-2 wages and your federal withholding

    Direct answer. Two figures, both printed on the same form. Wages are box 1. Federal withholding is box 2 — the line that says “Federal income tax withheld.” Nothing else on that form belongs in either field.

    Example. Dani’s hospital W-2 shows $48,300 in box 1 and $3,150 in box 2. Those two go in. The amounts in boxes 4 and 6 — Social Security and Medicare — are real money she paid, but they aren’t federal income tax, and dropping them into the withholding field would invent a refund that doesn’t exist.

    Tip. Three jobs, three W-2s: add the three box 1 amounts together, and the three box 2 amounts together. The box wants your year, not your last employer.

    Watch out. No W-2 in front of you yet? Leave the withholding blank rather than guessing high. A blank makes the estimate look worse than reality, which is the safer direction to be wrong in.

    Children with an SSN vs. dependents with an ITIN

    Direct answer. Three counters, and the difference between them is money. Kids with an SSN who were under 17 at the end of the year go in the first one and produce the Child Tax Credit, up to $2,200 each with as much as $1,700 of it refundable. Kids with an SSN who are 17 or 18 — plus students up to 23 — go in the second. Everyone else goes in the third, and both of those produce $500 each, which only lowers tax and never turns into a refund.

    Example. The Ortegas have two kids with SSNs, ages 6 and 17. The six-year-old goes in the first box. The seventeen-year-old goes in the second — too old for the child credit, still counted as a qualifying child for the Earned Income Credit. Rosa counts her daughter in the first box, because the daughter is under 17 and has an SSN, and her son in the third, because he doesn’t. Count them where they belong and let the calculator apply the rules: because Rosa files on her own with an ITIN, it moves the daughter’s credit down to the $500 amount by itself. Don’t do that part by hand.

    Tip. Moving the 17-year-old up into the first box doesn’t get you more money. It gets you a wrong number — and it’s a wrong number in the direction that ends in a letter from the IRS.

    Watch out. Your own children under 17 who don’t have an SSN belong in the third box. The box doesn’t ask whether a dependent has an SSN or an ITIN, because for that credit it’s the same $500 either way.

    How to read the breakdown

    Direct answer. The big line at the top is the verdict: what you’d get back, or what you’d owe. Under it, “How this number adds up” shows the arithmetic, in the order the calculation happens, so you can check it instead of trusting it.

    • What you earned this year — your W-2 wages plus your net profit. Nothing has been subtracted yet.
    • Half your self-employment tax — the part of that tax the law lets you take off your income. It only appears if you had income of your own.
    • Standard deduction — the flat amount for your filing status, plus the extra amount if you or your spouse are 65 or older.
    • 20% deduction for your business — shows up only if you worked for yourself. The law lets you take off up to 20% of what your business made, and starting in 2026 there’s a $400 minimum if you made at least $1,000. It works the same with an ITIN, and it doesn’t cut your Earned Income Credit.
    • What’s left to figure tax on — your taxable income. This is the figure the brackets are applied to, and it’s always smaller than what you earned.
    • Federal income tax — what the brackets produce.
    • Self-employment tax — Social Security and Medicare on your own income. This one is not covered by withholding and not reduced by the standard deduction.
    • Credits for your dependents — the child credit and the credit for other dependents.
    • Earned Income Credit — shown only when you qualify for it.
    • Already withheld — what your employer sent to the IRS on your behalf during the year.

    Below the table, two sentences: what share of your next dollar goes to tax, and what share of everything you earned did. Those are two different numbers and the second is always the smaller one — see Your bracket is not your tax rate.

    Tip. The verdict changes colour when it flips between a refund and a balance due. If it flips while you’re still answering questions, that’s not a glitch: dependents and withholding are counted late, and they’re the two things most likely to turn the sign around.

    How this calculator works, step by step

    Six steps, in the order the calculator runs them. No formulas — the point isn’t to teach the math, it’s that you can see where your number came from and decide whether to believe it.

    Step 1 · Your income for the year

    First it adds your W-2 wages to the net profit you made on your own. That total is your starting point, and it’s the only place in the whole calculation where nothing has been subtracted yet. If you had both kinds of income, they’re added together here and then treated differently from this step onward — which is why the box asks how you were paid before it asks how much.

    Step 2 · Self-employment tax

    When you work for yourself, nobody withholds anything from you during the year, so the Social Security and Medicare that an employer would have taken out of every paycheck arrives in one piece when you file. That’s self-employment tax: 15.3% in total — 12.4% for Social Security on earnings up to $184,500, and 2.9% for Medicare with no ceiling at all — charged on 92.35% of your net profit. It’s the reason most self-employed people see “you would owe” on a calculator for the first time. Half of it comes back off your income in the next step, and none of it is charged at all if you made less than $400 on your own.

    Step 3 · The standard deduction and your taxable income

    Next it subtracts your standard deduction: a flat amount set by your filing status, with an extra amount added for each person on the return who is 65 or older. What’s left is your taxable income — and it’s a smaller number than what you earned, which is why the bracket you land in is lower than people expect. This calculator assumes you take the standard deduction, which is what the large majority of filers do.

    Step 4 · The federal brackets

    Your taxable income is cut into slices, and each slice pays its own rate. The first dollars are taxed at the lowest rate whatever you earn in total; only the amount above each threshold moves up to the next rate.

    Say the Ortegas end up with $60,000 of taxable income. The first $24,800 of it is taxed at 10%. The rest — everything above $24,800 — is taxed at 12%. Not one dollar of that $60,000 is taxed at 12% until it has passed $24,800. The full table is in 2026 federal tax brackets and rates.

    Step 5 · Credits for children and dependents

    Now the credits come off, and the order matters. First the non-refundable ones reduce your tax, but only down to zero — that’s the credit for other dependents, $500 each. Then the refundable part of the Child Tax Credit can pay out even if your tax is already at zero, up to $1,700 per child, limited to 15% of what you earned above $2,500. Last comes the Earned Income Credit, which is refundable in full and has three gates: you need an SSN, your spouse needs one too if you file jointly, and married filing separately doesn’t qualify. With no children to claim, there’s a fourth gate — your age has to be between 25 and 64.

    Step 6 · Withholding, and the final number

    Finally it counts what was already withheld from your paychecks and adds the refundable credits. Tax, minus credits, minus what you already paid: if the result is positive it’s a refund, if it’s negative it’s a balance due. This is why two people who earned exactly the same amount can get opposite results — one had tax taken out of every paycheck all year, the other didn’t, and the total owed was identical.

    2026 federal tax brackets and rates

    Tax year 2026 figures

    These are the federal rates for the 2026 tax year — the return you file in early 2027. Find your filing status, then read down: each rate applies only to the slice of taxable income inside that row, not to your whole income.

    2026 federal income tax brackets, by filing status.
    RateSingleMarried filing jointlyHead of householdMarried filing separately
    10%$0 – $12,400$0 – $24,800$0 – $17,700$0 – $12,400
    12%$12,401 – $50,400$24,801 – $100,800$17,701 – $67,450$12,401 – $50,400
    22%$50,401 – $105,700$100,801 – $211,400$67,451 – $105,700$50,401 – $105,700
    24%$105,701 – $201,775$211,401 – $403,550$105,701 – $201,750$105,701 – $201,775
    32%$201,776 – $256,225$403,551 – $512,450$201,751 – $256,200$201,776 – $256,225
    35%$256,226 – $640,600$512,451 – $768,700$256,201 – $640,600$256,226 – $384,350
    37%$640,601 and up$768,701 and up$640,601 and up$384,351 and up

    2026 standard deduction

    Before any of those rates touch your income, the standard deduction comes off. Take it and you can’t itemize; the large majority of filers take it, and this calculator assumes you do.

    2026 standard deduction, by filing status.
    Filing statusStandard deduction
    Single$16,100
    Married filing jointly$32,200
    Head of household$24,150
    Married filing separately$16,100

    From age 65 there is an additional standard deduction, per person: $1,650 if you file as married and $2,050 if you are single or head of household.

    That extra amount is per person, so a couple where both are 65 or older counts it twice.

    Your bracket is not your tax rate

    Being “in the 22% bracket” does not mean you pay 22% of what you earn. It means the last slice of your taxable income is taxed at 22% — everything below the threshold is still taxed at the lower rates, one slice at a time. What you actually pay, taken across your whole income, is your effective rate, and it is always lower than your bracket. That’s why a raise can’t cost you money: only the dollars above the line move up a rate, never the ones below it.

    The calculator shows you both numbers: what share of your next dollar goes to tax, and what share of everything you earned went to tax. If you’ve ever turned down extra hours because they’d “push you into the next bracket,” those two lines are worth reading twice.

    How tax refunds work

    A refund isn’t a bonus. It’s the difference between what was withheld from you during the year and what you actually owed — your own money coming back. Here’s how long that takes, how to watch it, and what happens when the number goes the other way.

    How long a refund takes

    The IRS publishes two timelines. A return filed electronically takes 3 weeks from the day you e-filed. A return mailed on paper takes 6 or more weeks from the day the IRS received it. Those are the agency’s own figures, not the “21 days” repeated on most tax sites.

    If your refund includes the Earned Income Credit, plan on mid-February — not January. By law, the IRS holds every refund on a return that claims the Earned Income Credit until mid-February. It’s an anti-fraud rule and it applies no matter how early you file: a return sent on January 28th with that credit on it doesn’t pay out two weeks later. We’d rather you hear that from us now than find out about it while you’re waiting on the money. If you’ve built January around that deposit — a car payment, a deposit on a place, catching up on a bill — build it around late February instead.

    Returns claiming the refundable part of the Child Tax Credit also take longer to review. The IRS doesn’t publish a date for those, so neither will we.

    How to track your refund

    The IRS runs a tool called Where’s My Refund? on irs.gov/refunds, and the same information is in the IRS2Go app. Your status shows up 24 hours after you e-file a current-year return, 3 days after you e-file a return for an earlier year, and 4 weeks after you file on paper. Before those windows, an empty screen doesn’t mean anything went wrong — it means the return hasn’t been logged yet.

    If you’re applying for your first ITIN

    When we handle your ITIN by mail, your package — the Form W-7, your identity documents and your tax return — goes to the IRS in the post. That’s how our service works, and it’s published on the page for it.

    Which refund timeline applies to a return filed alongside an ITIN application is something we won’t publish until our preparer confirms it. What we will tell you now: don’t assume the 3-week e-file window, and ask us before you plan around that money. Filing is still the right move, and there’s often still a refund. Read how the ITIN process works by mail for the whole thing, step by step.

    If the number comes out red: what happens next

    First, the part people get backwards: the deadline to file and the deadline to pay are the same day, but they are two separate obligations. Filing on time protects you from the failure-to-file penalty, which is the expensive one — and it protects you even if you can’t send the money with it. Not filing because you can’t pay is the most costly mistake in this whole page.

    Second: the IRS has ways to pay over time, and they’re something you apply for directly, on irs.gov or by phone. It isn’t a favour and you don’t need anybody’s permission to ask.

    Third, what we do and don’t do. We read the notice with you, explain in plain words what it says and what it’s asking for, and stay with you while you make the call. If your situation moves into negotiating a tax debt or into an audit, that needs someone with full rights to act on your behalf before the IRS, and we refer you to a specialist who has them. Knowing where our work stops is part of doing it properly.

    What this calculator does not cover

    Right Step’s calculator estimates one thing — your 2026 federal return, under the standard deduction, for someone who is a resident for tax purposes. Here is everything it deliberately leaves out.

    • State income tax. Texas doesn’t have one, so in Texas your income tax return is the federal return and nothing is missing. If you lived any part of the year in a state that does tax income, this number is missing that piece.
    • Itemized deductions. It assumes the standard deduction. If your deductible expenses add up to more than the standard amount, your real number is better than this one.
    • Social Security, pensions, rental income and interest. Unemployment is counted. The others you can check under “Other income,” and the box will warn you that your number may change, but it doesn’t calculate them.
    • The investment income limit on the Earned Income Credit. Past a certain amount of investment income the credit disappears completely. The box doesn’t check it.
    • The income phase-outs on the child credit. At high incomes the child credit shrinks and then stops. The box applies the full amount at every income level.
    • The extra deduction for people 65 and over created by the 2025 law. The long-standing additional standard deduction is included; this newer one is not, because three things about how it works in 2026 couldn’t be verified against an IRS source. When you or your spouse is 65 or older, the box says so and gives no figure rather than a figure we can’t stand behind.
    • The new deductions for tips and overtime from the same 2025 law.
    • The narrow exception that lets someone filing separately from a spouse they live apart from claim the Earned Income Credit. Here, filing separately always shows zero for that credit.
    • A qualifying child of any age with a permanent disability. There’s no box for it, so that child is counted as an ordinary dependent.
    • Filing separately when your spouse itemizes. In that case your standard deduction is zero, and the box doesn’t ask, so with that status its number is a ceiling.
    • Anyone who files a 1040-NR. A non-resident doesn’t get the standard deduction and none of this applies.

    Every one of those choices errs in the same direction: this calculator would rather understate your refund than overstate it. A pleasant surprise with your documents on the table beats an unpleasant one. And none of it is your return — the real number comes out when somebody looks at the paper.

    Frequently asked questions

    Questions about this calculator

    Should I take the standard deduction or itemize?

    Most people come out ahead with the standard deduction, and it’s what this calculator assumes. Itemizing only wins when your deductible expenses add up to more than the standard amount for your filing status, which usually takes a mortgage with real interest on it or a heavy year of medical bills. If you think that’s you, it’s worth checking with your documents in hand — it changes your number, not the way the calculator works.

    What’s the difference between a deduction and a credit?

    A deduction lowers the income your tax is calculated on. A credit lowers the tax itself, dollar for dollar. That’s why a $1,000 credit is worth more than a $1,000 deduction — the deduction saves you only your tax rate on that amount. And credits come in two kinds: refundable ones pay out even when your tax is already at zero, while non-refundable ones can only take your tax down to zero and stop there.

    Is a big refund a good thing?

    Not necessarily. A large refund that comes out of withholding means you lent that money to the government all year, interest-free, when it could have been in your paychecks. A refund that comes out of refundable credits like the Earned Income Credit is different — that’s money you wouldn’t have had otherwise. The breakdown under your result tells you which kind yours is.

    Why does it say I owe when I never have before?

    Almost always self-employment tax. When you work for yourself nobody withholds anything during the year, so the Social Security and Medicare that used to come out of each paycheck shows up in full when you file. It isn’t a penalty and it isn’t an error: it’s the same tax you were already paying on a W-2, arriving all at once instead of in pieces.

    Why is the estimate lower with an ITIN?

    Because two of the big credits require a Social Security number, and they require it in different places. The Earned Income Credit needs an SSN for you and for your spouse, so an ITIN anywhere on the return rules it out. The Child Tax Credit needs one SSN on the return — which means a couple filing jointly where one spouse has an SSN gets the full credit for each child who has one, even though the other spouse has an ITIN. If you file on your own with an ITIN, your dependents produce the $500 non-refundable credit instead. Filing is still the right move, and there’s often still a refund from what was withheld.

    Does this include state taxes?

    No — it estimates your federal return only. In Texas there’s nothing to add: the state doesn’t tax income, so the federal return is the whole of it. If you lived or worked in a state that does tax income, you have a second return to file and this number doesn’t cover it.

    Is anything I type here saved?

    No. The whole calculation happens inside your phone or your computer: nothing is sent to a server, nothing is stored, and none of it reaches us. We don’t ask for your name, your email or your phone number. Close the page and there’s nothing left behind.

    Why might my real refund be different from this estimate?

    Because an estimate works with the questions that fit on a screen and a tax return works with all of your documents. The usual reasons the number moves: income that wasn’t asked about here, deductions you can take that weren’t offered, credits that depend on details of your household, and debts the IRS subtracts from a refund before sending it. The real number comes out of the return, not the estimate.

    Now get the real number.

    An estimate is built from the answers that fit on a screen. A return is built from your documents. Book a free consultation and we’ll work out what you actually owe or get back.

    Right Step · Austin, Texas · Mon–Sun · 8:00 AM – 8:00 PM.